🔗 Share this article Each Cook Should Study Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations. When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end names. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London. A Surprise Recognition The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the owners utterly surprised. “I am utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble shop securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list. A Charm of Simplicity This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner. A Star Offering: Tantuni Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency. The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside. It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony. Beyond the Basic Tantuni There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”. For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste. Rising Above the Stars Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations. While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure. The Philosophy of Warmth The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner. “I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.” The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”. The Story of Perseverance In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son. A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort. “My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares. An Accomplishment for the Community This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.